In the past weeks, I have been climbing with the new FiveTen Super-Mocc. At first I thought it would be the same as the Moccasym, but after just a few climbs I was really surprised by the performance of the new shoe especially for crack climbing.
The Super-Mocc is basically an updated version of the ultra classic Mocassym which has been THE overall favorite crack climbing shoe for the past 15 years. FiveTen made a good job by keeping all that was good about the Moccasym and added a few things that made the new Super-Mocc a real crack climbing formula 1.
The Super-Mocc is built on the same last, but has a better / more secure heel-cup than its predecessor. This improvement enables better heel hooking, because the shoe doesn't tend to slip-out of your foot. Another update on the Super-Mocc is the toe rand that raps around the whole toe-box. This will protect your toes while jamming and will add some friction for the ultra thin offset cracks. This will also make the shoe more durable as it will not wear out in cracks (compared to leather). This will also prevent the shoe to "deform" too much as the regular slippers will usually do.
The Super-Moc uses the new Mystique rubber. This rubber gives the same performance as the C4 in term of friction, but is more durable. This enabled FiveTen to use a thinner rubber for the sole (3.5mm instead of 5mm). Having a thinner rubber gives more precision for ringlocks and smaller finger cracks (.75 green Camalot and smaller). I am really pleased with these new shoes and they are now part of my climbing shoes arsenal.
Check these out in the Spring!
What size do you wear as compared to your street shoe?
ReplyDeleteA full size smaller. They will stretch considerably.
ReplyDeleteHey PeeWee, are they discontinuing the supermocc? And if so what would you recommend in the 5.10 shoes for crack? Thanks and keep up the exploits.
ReplyDelete