Monday, December 13, 2010

Pushing my luck

My Fall trip is pretty much over. I'm flying back home to my girlfriend tomorrow. PSYCHE! The whole trip has been pretty epic... but the last week has been full-on EPIC! I had plan to finish my trip by climbing No Way Jose. This route is located in the North Wash of Lake Powell in Utah. It's a perfect line, really one of the most aesthetic line I've seen. It's a 30 meters #.5 Camalot overhanging finger crack and some people say it's the hardest finger crack of the desert.

On my first day on the climb, I came painfully closeto send. But since I had a couple days left I didn't feel nervous at all because I was pretty confident to send it the next day... The next morning I woke-up with a really sore throat and fever... and had to rush the the bathroom a couple times too... I was in pretty bad shape... so bad I couldn't even drive to Salt Lake City to catch my plane... I stayed 4 days in bed at my friends Thomas and Roger's place in Moab (thanks guys!!!). I rebooked my flight with a couple extra days so I could get back on the route for a last minute send... and maybe push my luck a little bit...

Yesterday, I was still feeling a little bit sick I still went for it and again came really close to send but couldn't make it happen... I was simply out of breath and was getting too pumped to manage the route... I started to get nervous...
This morning I was not feeling much better than yesterday, but I told myself I had nothing to lose anyway. So after a quick warm-up I jumped on the route... The whole way I was feeling nervous and feverish... I almost asked my friend Thomas to take and lower, but I kept going... and little did I know I was screaming at the crux and sticking it... and then carefully made the it to the anchor for the SEND. SOOOO PSYCHE!
I'm really happy with this route, because I had wanted to climb it for a while. I couldn't ask for a better end of my trip.

Thomas, James, Roger thanks a lot for your help and support! I really appreciate guys!

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