Saturday, December 4, 2010
I've been road tripping for about 4-5 weeks. Hoping to climb as many cracks as possible. The main goal of the trip was to climb Conception. I had tried the route for the first time about 4 years ago, but an injury to my right index finger ended my hope to climb the route. Last spring I came painfully close to send the route, but had to catch a flight before I could finish it... The Epic road to Conception had just started...
So, last November, on way to Moab (from Montreal) I stopped in Boulder for a couple days. I had to wait for friend over there, so I climbed Deadline in Boulder Canyon. I had been on the route a couple years ago but had never returned to do it. The route is really a V8 boulder problem. The moves are cool but it's really short for a route.
Then I drove to Moab and got on Conception right away. I felt pretty good on the route but on the 2nd day I made a huge flapper and had to take a brake from the route. The start of the climb is so thin I can't climb it tape on this part of my finger. Then bad weather came and, frustrated, I bailed to Zion to get on Master Blaster. I had heard the route was very goo and I was not disappointed. This route consist of a 5.11+/12- finger crack to a cool 7-8 feet bulge roof.The size of the crack in the bulge is .75 Camalot. I climbed the route pretty fast (3 tries over two days). My hand size definitely helped for this one, because I could get a really-really-thight-thin-hand jam. but I still had to ringlock and throw to the jug at the lip. While the weather improved in Moab, I still had to wait to get on Conception because the police/FBI had to close the Potash Road to to catch a convict who was on the go after shooting a cop.
I almost gave up my hopes to do Conception, but after a couple days in Indian Creek, where I did Pink Flamingo, the cops reopened Potash Road and I could finish Conception. This is definitely one of best route / coolest line in the desert.
I still have a week to kill and I'm hoping to do No Way Jose at the North Wash. Wish me Luck!