Wednesday, November 3, 2010

The Crack mobile

Nadine and I finally made the move... We got ourself a camper! It's really really cool! I really like the trout stripes and the assorted roof box too... OK I have to admit... it drives a little bit like a sailboat (especially with when the wind comes from the side) and the gas mileage isn't the best... BUT it's super comfortable... It's heated, as a fridge and a ton of space. I'm on my Fall crack trip, so it'll be the perfect set up for me. Especially around Moab. The nights are pretty cold there and it's pretty cool to have a 4X4 pick-up truck for some of the more hard core dirt roads over there.

So after 2 days of driving, I made it to Boulder and already climbed there for a couple days. The first day I got on a"secret crack" and felt pretty good on it... but on the 2nd day, I broke some key crimpers and now I can't do the crux section... damn it... So I took a day off of it and went to Boulder Canyon and I surprised myself by quickly doing Deadline (I was probably still frustrated by the other route... so I had a ton of energy to spare)... I had tried the route a couple years ago, but had to leave before I sent... It's a really short 35 foot route. Essentially it's a 10 moves V8 roof/crack boulder problem. You still have to stop in the middle of the crux and place the gear... The climbing is super powerful (I guess my bouldering regime paid off!!!). This route has originally been bolted and rated 5.14... It's NOT... It has now been done a couple (5-6) times on gear now and the new grade has settled for 13d (I think maybe 13c... or maybe it's just my style never mind... I'll take the 13d points...). On my personal star-scale, it's probably not a 5 stars route (probably only 1 or 2) But it was still on the "List" and I'm happy to have done it in a day. Stay tuned for more crack climbing...

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