Wednesday, November 10, 2010

Moab part 2

(the calm before the storm)

OK Now I'm officially pissed off... a couple days ago I fell off at the end Conception again... in the easy section... WTF??? And I gobied my finger pretty well too... Stupid stupid stupid...
(pretty good gobies)

So since I couldn't get on Conception again, we decided to head down to Indian Creek. Yesterday, my buddy Ghis got on the ultra classic Coyne Crack and also on Finger in a Light Socket at the Super Crack Buttress. He definitely got schooled on Coyne Crack (exactly like I did when I tried it on my my first trip to Indian Creek), but he did really well on FSL. I tought he had in the bag, but a foot slipped and he went for the ride.

(Ghis getting ready to attack Coyne Crack)

Today, Ghis wanted to get back on FLS so I decided to check out Pink Flamingo. This route is on the far right side of Super Crack Buttress. I had tried it maybe 5 years ago with my friend Sly and had my ass kicked really hard...This route is mostly 0.5 Camalot... my worst crack size... my nemesis... I can't get a finger lock and I can't quite get a ringlock... so all I do is slide off the crack... It's especially hard to stop and place the gear. But I thought I'd go and check it out and finally learn how to climb this size. My first try when really bad... I mean... I had to aid past the 0.5 section... Then on my second try I climbed it with 2 quick hangs... and definitely found the "trick"... I can definitely do the route. I'm psyche because I thought I'd never be able to do this one...
So after that second try, my psyche was shut down by the big clouds that showed up and brought some snow... We had to bail... The forecast looks grim for another day or so and after that we'll be back at it...

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