I'm on my way to Yosemite Valley! I'm writing this post form SLC airport. PSYCHE! I've been training all winter with my friends Alex and Tarik to be in good shape for this trip. I think I'm in shape alright... We'll see...
I just spent the last couple weeks in Moab region to finalize my training... It was a blast. I love desert crack climbing so much... It's just amazing! I've climbed a lot in Indian Creek, but every time I go back I'm just blown away by the beauty of the place.
This time, I was lucky to be climbing with my favorite climbing partner... Nadine, my girlfriend. This was pretty much her first trip down there and after a couple days of crack climbing technique experimentation ( and a couple tears) she started to enjoy the place.
On my side, I had my eyes on Conception... I briefly tried the route a couple years ago and had promise myself to come back for it. It is such a perfect route. It's a full length pitch that goes from pinky finger locks all the way to perfect hands jams! The line is so amazing... I call it the Queen of Desert Cracks! It sits by itself on this gently overhanging wall in the middle of Day Canyon. First climbed by Dean Potter in 1999, it has seen only a handful free ascents since. I came really closed to send it, but no cigar... And since I have to be in Sacramento today to pick-up Jeff for our Yosemite trip, I couldn't try it more... But I will be back for sure! Here's a couple shots: