Wednesday, October 31, 2012

All right a few days after get back to Moab I went back to the White Rim to check out some undone lines.

So after 1h30 of rough driving down to the "ditch" we got to work.

The White Rim view!

I tried a line I had seen last year, but the rock quality and climbing didn't work out so great so I move to another route. I check out the "Vadge", a 5.13- roof to steep groove put up by Rob Pizem. As its name implies, it's a great looking line. And the size is just how I like them. Nice and tight. Tight hand it is. To my surprise I flashed it. It cheered me up a bit...

This is Tom Randall on the Vadge... Looking at his face it looks like he's got his arm stuck deep...!!! Or maybe he's looking for his watch or something???

Toward the end of the day, on the walk out, I saw another roof crack... An unclimbed one!  I had not seen this one before has it's kinda hidden in a corner. I walked up to it and was pretty psyche on the way it looked. I decided to give it a go. It's about 18-20 meters long and starts as a boulder and then slowly gets higher and higher, so you have to place gear. It's starts as a fist crack for a while and then gets to the weirdest size... not quite fist and not quite a cupped hand... its pretty insecure to climb this size on a vertical crack... so in a roof it was a little bit of a battle for me... Toward the end it gets to a few good hand jams and then to a few thin hand jams. I ended up also flashing this one... WTF?!?

I asked around and it seems like it would be a FA! PSYCHE! Good way to start the trip. I'm calling it Fisting the Crack... As far as grade goes...  It definitely felt harder than the Vadge, so I'm gonna call it 5.13.

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